LightSaberOS

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Operating System for Arduino based LightSaber

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# LightSaberOS by neskweek and Protonerd based on Protonerd's DIYino saber boards

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## VIDEOS

[![DIYino demo of Neopixel lightsaber blade with LSOS] (http://img.youtube.com/vi/PjXLKvWpA8A/0.jpg)](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PjXLKvWpA8A)      
_This is a modified version of the neopixel code. LSOS doesn't come with this fire effect out of the box ;)_   
[![DIYino prototype demo with LSOS by neskweek - Swings] (http://img.youtube.com/vi/tU3GZzV9I6E/0.jpg)](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tU3GZzV9I6E)[![Motion Detection Demo (made under v1.0 RC5)] (http://img.youtube.com/vi/wY8BSSEyYLY/0.jpg)](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wY8BSSEyYLY)[![Quick tour (made under v1.0 RC4)] (http://img.youtube.com/vi/mc8scn_qyFM/0.jpg)](http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mc8scn_qyFM)

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### FEATURES :

* Simple modular systems (you can choose to remove some features from your final compilation)
* Supports all currently used blade types:
	 * STAR_LED refers to an in-hilt high-power LED module, usually of type RGB for color mixing, but can be a single LED type or any combination
	 * of colors and LED dice up to 3 (more can be configured on demand, up to 6 with DIYino Prime
	 * PIXELBLADE defines a neopixel stripe running the length of the blade. For more information on neopixels, see: https://www.adafruit.com/category/168
	 * Currently supported chip set: WS2812B
	 * LEDSTRINGS are commonly known as segmented LED strings and represent a blade type where thru-hole LEDs of a single color are connected in parallel
	 * along the length of the blade. Currently supported number of segments: 6 (like Hasbro high-end and Plecter boards among others)
* Swing detection based on quaternions (reacts only on real swings, no need for complicated sensitivity settings)
* Blade Clash detection (reacts reliably on clash without needing any sensitivity settings)
* Full gapless sound playing with "Hum Extended" soundfiles (see below)
* Blaster Shot deflect either triggered by button or on-the-move
* Blade Lockup (either button activated or triggered by a clash if initiaited)
* Accent LED for illuminated buttons
* Flash-on-Clash LEDString
* Multiple ignition/retractation/flickering effects
* Config Menu to modify some features without connecting your board to your PC/Mac 
* EEPROM load/save of your config preferences
* Soundfont adding supported (not automatic, you'll have little work to do ;) )

________________________________________________________________________________

### WHAT YOU WILL NEED :
* [Java Runtime Environment 8](http://www.oracle.com/technetwork/java/javase/downloads/jre8-downloads-2133155.html)    
Download the right file for your architecture
* [Arduino IDE](https://www.arduino.cc/en/Main/Software) (advised for end user)   
OR    
  [Arduino Eclipse v3.0](http://www.baeyens.it/) (advised for developpers, you have to know what you are doing)  
Again, download the right files for your architecture
* my new DFPlayer library (Included in zip file)
* [I2Cdev and MPU6050 (Included in zip file)](https://codeload.github.com/jrowberg/i2cdevlib/zip/master) 
* [EEPROMex9.1 (Included in zip file)](http://thijs.elenbaas.net/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2013/12/EEPROMEx-9.1.zip)
* [OneButton (Included in zip file)] (https://github.com/mathertel/OneButton)
* [LinkedList (Included in zip file)] (https://github.com/ivanseidel/LinkedList)
* Wire
* All necessary libraries are part of the Git

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### DEVICE CURRENTLY SUPPORTED :

Designed to be used on [DIYino boards](https://github.com/Protonerd/DIYino) (recommended)
Designed to be used on Arduino Nano, Arduino Pro mini (ATmega328 processors)

* IMU (accelerometer + gyroscope) modules :
	* MPU6050
* Soundplayer modules:
	* DFPlayer Mini
* Blade module:
	* homemade LEDstrings aka. LEDSTRINGS
	* RGB LEDs (Luxeon/Cree styled) aka. STAR_LED
	* Single LED (falls under the category STAR_LED)
	* Neopixel strings aka. PIXELBLADE

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## SET UP FOR ARDUINO IDE:

These instructions should work for IDE version 1.6.0 and greater and may work with 1.5.x also. If compiling hangs with 1.6.4, try again with File > Preferences > Compiler warnings: None.

0. Download and install Arduino IDE (recommended version 1.6.11 or newer)
1. Download https://github.com/neskweek/LightSaberOS/archive/master.zip.
2. Unzip the downloaded file LightSaberOS-master.zip.
3. Rename the unzipped folder from LightSaberOS-master to LightSaberOS.
4. Move all folders inside LightSaberOS/Libraries to {sketchbook folder}/libraries. You can find the location of your sketchbook folder at File > Preferences > Sketchbook location.
5. Open the file LightSaberOS/LightSaberOS.ino.
6. Connect the USB cable to your Arduino.
7. Set up your board manager in Tools/Boards/Boards Manager, select Arduino AVR Boards by Arduino and  in the lower left side of the box the version 1.6.17 (recommended) and press install
8. Select the correct board in Tools > Board (Arduino Nano for DIYino Prime v1 or Arduino/Genuino Uno for DIYino Prime v1.5 or greater and for Stardust)
9. Select the correct port in Tools > Port.
10. Follow the Project Setup instructions at https://github.com/neskweek/LightSaberOS.
11. Once all configuration changes have been made to LightSaberOS.ino, do Sketch > Upload.
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### PROJECT SETUP

#### 0. General Warnings

You are decided to build your lightsaber. Cool !   
Don't think I want to deceive you from your goal but you 'll have to keep those things in mind :    
    
* ___This project is not plug and play !___ It's tough, time consuming and you'll spend some times in trial and errors. But it's also highly rewarding once completed with success.     
* ___This project might be cheap___, but it's highly unlikely. If you don't make mistake it can be. If you do you'll have to go on spare parts,etc... and costs can grew up.     
* ___Think twice about your power supply/LED relations ! This is CRUCIAL!___ A power supply that gives to much voltage for your LEDs will result in burned LEDs. We don't recommend the use of power supply that exceed total LED's voltage capacity. While it's still possible, if you do go down this path, calculate, think, ask questions and USE A MULTIMETER ! 
Beware of MAX_BRIGHTNESS setting. While this can remove some voltage from your LEDs it's certainly can not remove too much. Each MOSFETs can take a certain amount of voltage but it will heat up. And too much it can ruin your MOSFET or your DIYNO board.     
This choice is ___THE MOST IMPORTANT CHOICE___ for your device !!!!    
Also mind the intensity (Amps) your setup will require...     
I told you it will be tough !  
* ___You will have shorts !!!___ Well I hope you don't, in fact. Keep in mind that solders on your board are not bullet proof, even for experienced people. The more your board will move, the more these solderings will be exposed to breakage and that will lead to short cuts. On a fully completed blade, this mostly results in unresponsivness : the blade will stops flickering, you won't hear anymore swings and you won't be able to retract the blade until you cut the power off (remove battery, or plug a kill key).
Isolate your buttons leads too, contact with metal hull => short cut. You'll want thermoretractable sheath and maybe hot glue.  
* ___Consider a kill key !___ They'll preserve your batteries from draining out when you're not using your saber, allows you to recharge your saber, allows you to quickly shut down your saber.... You want to put a kill key !

#### 1. IMU calibration 
 First, you'll need (if not already done) to calibrate your MPU6050. DIYino boards come pre-calibrated with calibration values stored starting from EEPROM address 96 or 200 (see comments for branch LSOS 1.5) 
 [I recommend you use the AutoCalibration script you can find here](https://github.com/Protonerd/DIYino/blob/master/MPU6050_calibration.ino)

#### 2. Determine IMU orientation
 The way you physically installed the MPU6050 in your hilt will influence how swing detection works.  
 You'll have to determine which IMU's axis is parallel to blade axis and change it accordingly in __Config.h__ :   
```c++
//#define BLADE_X
#define BLADE_Y
//#define BLADE_Z
```

#### 3. Prepare your SDCard
Then, put the content of _SDCard.7z_ on your SDCard:

1. Format your SDCard. __I insist !__  (go read __HOW TO MANAGE YOUR SDRCARD__ section for further explanation)
2. Unzip SDCard.7z to a folder
3. Select all the files from this folder and __"Drag and Drop"__ them to your SDCard. __NO COPY AND PASTE !!!__ :
We need to have this file copied in the same order as their filename order. On Microsoft Windows, Copy/paste produce an anarchic copy order, but Drag and Drop produce an ordered copy as long as you select the first file to init the drag...

#### 4. Check Wirings
_If you use DIYino board, don't mind that paragraph._[Go there instead and read user manual](https://github.com/Protonerd/DIYino/blob/master/DIYino_Prime_v1_User_Manual.pdf)     
_If you use DIYino board v1, and want flicker effect wire SPK+ to A6 and SPK- to A7. Starting with v1.5 and Stardust this connections is included on-board._

Using  **Protonerd's** wirings.    
Don't forget to wire those ones which were added :  
* DFPLAYER TX to D7
* DFPLAYER SPK+ to A6
* DFPLAYER SPK- to A7

#### 5. Select your blade type

###### A.LEDSTRINGS 
In __Config.h__  be sure this line is uncommented :
```c++
#define LEDSTRINGS 
```

###### B. RGB LEDs or Single LED
In __Config.h__  comment this line :
```c++
#define STAR_LED 
```

###### C. Neopixel stripes
	
* b) In __Config.h__  comment this line :
	
```c++ 
#define PIXELBLADE 
```

#### 6. Compile and Upload the sketch to your Arduino device

#### 7. Enjoy

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## Finite State Machine or How to interact with your saber :

###### _In Standby Mode (idle)_ :  
* Short press on Main switch : activate your saber (Action Mode)
* Long press on Aux switch : activate Config Mode
* if idle for more than 5 min : PowerSaving mode.

###### _In PowerSaving Mode (idle)_ :  
* Short press on Main switch or Aux switch : leave PowerSaving Mode (go back to Standby Mode)

###### _In Action Mode_ :
* Move your saber around : Swing effect
* Hit the hilt/blade : Clash effect
* Short press Aux switch : Enable/disable Blaster block modes. Move your saber to produce Blaster effects.
* Long press Aux switch : Blade Lockup effect
* Long press Main switch : Shutdown saber

###### _In Config Mode_ :  
* short press Main switch : Up the value
* short press Aux switch : Down the value
* long press Main switch : Change menu :  
* Long press Aux switch : update config to EEPROM and leave Config Mode

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### HOW TO MANAGE YOUR SDCRAD
#### 1. For DFPlayer Mini

While there are several ways to make the DIYino board play your sound files from your SDard, only one can provide full gapless sound "enqueuing" : we need to call each sound file by their copy order number.

Let's say you have a fresh formatted SDcard.   
You copy one file on it : its copy order is 1.   
You copy another one: its copy order is 2. 
You copy another one: its copy order is 3.

Now the main "problem" to be aware of is : you remove file 2 (because you maybe want to replace it) : file 3 keep is order number.
You copy another one: its copy order is 4.

In that case the only proper way to manage your SDCard I found is he following :    
1. You create a folder called _sdcard_ on your computer    
2. Using a batch renamer utility (I personnaly use [Bulk Rename Utility](http://www.bulkrenameutility.co.uk/Main_Intro.php)) you rename and copy your sound files to that folder in the order you planned     
3. You format your SDCard   
4. You select all your files from _sdcard_ directory and __DRAG AND DROP__ them to your SDCard.

Drag and drop on windows genereate a ordered copy following file name sorting.    
Copy and paste (Crtl+C/Ctrl+V) generate an anarchic ordered copy. Don't use it !

Each time you will want to modify one file you'll have to do it that way. Adding files on he other hand can be done without formatting.

Files MUST be named that way :   
_XXXX[-myfileName].wav_   
where :   
* XXXX is the order number planned (ex.: 0001, 0002, 2568,...)    
* [-myfileName] is OPTIONNAL. But I encourage you to put one to ease up organisation.    
__YOU MUST ABSOLUTLY AVOID ALL GAPS IN THE ORDER NUMBER YOU PLANNED !!!__

You can put files in different folders if you like. You don't necessarily need to let them on SDCard root.     
__BUT STILL BEWARE OF THOSE NUMBERS !!!!__   
Here are different examples of organisation you can use :

* All in SDCard root (like SDCard.7z example provided)   
* 1 folder for each SoundFonts. For example :    
	* **_CONFIG_** folder containing files numbered 0001 to 0020
	* **_Barlow's_** folder containing files numbered 0021 to 0053
	* **_MySoundfont_** folder containing files numbered 0079 to 0124
	* **_ZZZZZ_** folder containing files numbered 0054 to 0078
In this example files in ZZZZZ have been copied BEFORE those in MySoundfont
* an other example of organisation :
	* **_CONFIG_** folder containing files numbered 0001 to 0020
	* **_Barlow's_** folder containing files  0021-PowerOn.wav, 0022-PowerOff.wav,0023-Hum.wav,0024-Boot.wav
	* **_Swing_** folder containing only swing sound files numbered 0025 to 1075
	* **_Clash_** folder containing only clash sound files numbered 1076 to 1078
	* **_Blaster_** folder containing only blaster sound files numbered 1079 to 2001
	* **_Lockup_** folder containing only lockup sound files numbered 2002 to 2024   
	* **_MySoundFont_** folder containing files numbered 2025-Hum.wav, 2026-Boot.wav 2027-PowerOff.wav,2028-PowerOn.wav      
In that case, the user wants to be able to use all of his swing/clash/blaster/lockup/etc. sounds with every of its soundfont.   
He can also configure some soundfont to use just a part like for example Swings 0100 to 0153.

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### HOW TO PERSONNALIZE CONFIG MENU SOUNDS

Let's say you want to change the lady voice or ladies users may want their saber with a male voice or you may want her to talk in Dutch or French or Italian or Spanish (name your langage here).

I used [this online free Text-To-Speech generator](http://www.fromtexttospeech.com/) to produce those sounds.   
You can produce your own sentences with it or use any other Text-To-Speech program.  
For example :    
"Hello Master! You just entered into Config Mode !"    
Then rename the file it produces : 0001-CONFIG-ConfigMode.mp3. Remove old 0001-CONFIG-ConfigMode.wav file.

**_N.B.:_**       
1. _Only in Config Mode case_, mp3 are OK to use. We don't care in this mode if there's sound gap.   
2. Every changes in sounds file will force you to format your SDCard and copy the whole lot again.
________________________________________________________________________________

### HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN SOUNDFONT

[In this video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q_6VITJT0-w), you'll learn how to create the differents lightsabers sounds-effects.

You can experiment with different device to produce some unique sounds.

Then use Audacity to mix them.

Final sounds **MUST BE** in WAV format (**_NO MP3 ! NO WMA!_**)!   
When encoding a sound to those format (MP3 or WMA) the encoder will automaticly put a silence at start.
________________________________________________________________________________

## License:

This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International License.  
To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/]http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/4.0/ .

________________________________________________________________________________

## THANK YOU !!!

Thanks to Andras Kun (__Protonerd__ from Arduino Forum) for initiating this project, providing [DIYino Boards](https://github.com/Protonerd/DIYino) and his big contributions to LSOS Code    
Thanks to __Jakesoft__ from Arduino Forum for :    
* his initial idea of using Arduino device to build a lightsaber.   
* his idea of using Aux Switch as a triger mode for Blaster Blocks.   
and many more source of inspirations. You can also use his [USaber lib](https://github.com/JakeS0ft/USaber) to build your own code to operate your saber.

Thanks to [__Joe Barlow__](https://www.freesound.org/people/joe93barlow/) for his excellent opensource soundfont that I did remix for our needs.    
Thanks to __YOU__ for using it ;)

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## WITH YOUR HELP...
... a real life  lightsaber which cut through stuffs, like a pizza, could be made...    
But first things first : I need the pizza !   
[![paypal](https://www.paypalobjects.com/en_US/i/btn/btn_donateCC_LG.gif)](https://www.paypal.com/cgi-bin/webscr?cmd=_s-xclick&hosted_button_id=GX6M3586YU8JL)   
;)   
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## FINAL THOUGHTS

I hope you'll like it.

Don't hesitate to reports bugs (I've made a lot of test but... hey !), or suggest new functionallity.  
If you want to contribute to this project, please contact me via mail or on the [thread of this project] (http://forum.arduino.cc/index.php?topic=361566.0)  
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